Routines
The famous 10-step Korean routine: do you actually need all 10?
Ten steps sounds like a lot, and it is. Here's what each one does, the logic behind the order, and how to build a routine that fits your skin and your mornings.
18 October 20267 min read
Few things say K-beauty like the 10-step routine. It's often presented as a strict ritual, which is exactly why it can feel intimidating: ten products, twice a day, every day? The reality is far more relaxed. The ten steps are a full menu of what a skincare routine can include, and very few people need every item on it every day.
The classic ten, in order
- 1
Oil cleanser
Oil dissolves oil, so sunscreen, makeup and excess sebum melt away without scrubbing. Mainly an evening step.
- 2
Water-based cleanser
A gentle foam or gel washes away what's left, along with sweat and dust. Steps one and two together are the famous double cleanse.
- 3
Exfoliant (weekly)
A mild acid or enzyme exfoliant once or twice a week, not daily, to smooth texture and help skin look brighter.
- 4
Toner
The first layer after cleansing. Korean toners are usually watery and hydrating rather than stripping.
- 5
Essence
A light, watery layer of hydration, and one of the steps most closely tied to Korean routines.
- 6
Serum or ampoule
More concentrated formulas for a specific goal, such as hydration, brightness or calming. Names vary by brand, and the line between essence, serum and ampoule is often blurry.
- 7
Sheet mask (occasional)
A sheet soaked in serum for an extra boost once or twice a week. Follow the time on the pack, and don't leave it on until it dries.
- 8
Eye cream
A cream made for the thin skin around the eyes. Nice to have, but optional: a gentle moisturizer can often do the same job.
- 9
Moisturizer
Seals in the layers underneath and supports the skin barrier. Gel-creams suit oily skin; richer creams suit dry skin.
- 10
Sunscreen (morning)
The final step every morning, and the one never to skip, whatever else you leave out.
The logic: thinnest to thickest
The order isn't random. As a rule, products go from the thinnest, most watery texture to the thickest and richest. Watery layers sink easily into freshly cleansed skin, while creams form a heavier layer on top that helps keep the hydration underneath from escaping. Sunscreen goes last in the morning for a related reason: it needs to form an even film on top of your skin to protect it, so nothing but makeup should go over it.
A menu, not a rule
Every step on the list has a job, but many of those jobs overlap. A hydrating toner and an essence do similar work, a good moisturizer can look after the eye area, and a sheet mask is a treat rather than a requirement. Your skin's needs also change with the seasons: in a Saudi summer, with heat outside and air conditioning inside, many people prefer fewer and lighter layers, while cooler, drier months may call for a richer cream. Even in Korea, routines vary widely from one person to the next. Two good places to start:
- The simple version. Morning: a gentle cleanser (or just water), moisturizer and sunscreen. Evening: cleanse, starting with an oil cleanser if you wore sunscreen or makeup, then moisturize.
- The fuller version. Morning: cleanser, toner, a serum for your main goal, moisturizer and sunscreen. Evening: oil cleanser, water-based cleanser, toner, essence or serum, eye cream if you like one, and moisturizer. Once or twice a week, add an exfoliant or a sheet mask.
Think of the ten steps as a menu, not a rule: you choose what your skin needs today.
Add one product at a time
When you're building up from the basics, introduce new products one at a time, and give each one about two weeks before adding the next. That way, if your skin reacts well or badly, you'll know exactly which product it was. Before using anything new on your whole face, patch test it: apply a little to a small area, such as along the jawline or behind the ear, for a few days in a row, and watch for redness, itching or bumps. Take extra care with strong actives such as exfoliating acids and retinol: start slowly, and never begin several at once.
Consistency beats the step count
A short routine you follow every day will do more for your skin than a ten-step one you manage twice a week. Skin renews itself gradually, so give any routine a few weeks before judging it, and resist the urge to swap products constantly. If a step starts to feel like a chore, drop it; if your skin asks for more, add one thing at a time. And if a concern such as breakouts, redness or irritation doesn't improve, see a dermatologist rather than adding more products.
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